wreck

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HMS Penelope

Dropping onto the HMS Penelope is like stepping back in time, though admittedly, it’s a time when everything was covered in sponges and gorgonians. This Arethusa-class light cruiser, sunk in 1944, lies broken but still grand on the seabed. We love picking out the details – the huge anti-aircraft guns, now encrusted and home to schooling damselfish, and the stern section where you can clearly see the rudder. Exploring the Penelope, you’re constantly aware of the ship's scale. Swim through a torpedo tube opening, now a swim-through for divers, and you get a real sense of its former power. Our favourite spot has to be the bow, rearing up from the sand, completely coated in red gorgonians. It’s a riot of colour and a magnet for fish, particularly the inquisitive Mediterranean parrotfish. While the wreck is deep, the visibility here can be superb, making the descent a genuinely dramatic affair. Be prepared for cooler temperatures, even in summer, so a good 7mm suit is a smart move. It's an advanced dive, definitely, but for those with the experience, it offers a deeply atmospheric encounter with a piece of naval history, beautifully reclaimed by the sea.