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JOAN DE ASTIGARRAGA

The Joan de Astigarraga is one of our favourite dives in Portofino, a proper historical wreck you can really explore. Dropping to a max depth of 20m, it’s a great option if you’re not keen on deeper dives but still want to see something substantial. The ship, sunk in 1917, now lies in two distinct sections. We always head for the stern first; the propeller is still there, impressively large, and often shrouded in clouds of damselfish. Inside the holds, you’ll find a surprising amount of light filtering through, illuminating schools of tiny glassfish that shimmer as you pass. It feels like swimming through liquid silver. The bow section, a short swim away, is more broken up but still recognisable, home to some surprisingly large moray eels tucked into crevices. The wreck itself is covered in a tapestry of red gorgonians and yellow sponges, a striking contrast against the Mediterranean blue. Visibility can be excellent here, particularly in the mornings before boat traffic picks up, making the whole wreck visible from above. We'd suggest a good torch; it really brings out the colours and helps peer into the deeper recesses.