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SMS Markgraf

The SMS Markgraf, for us, is the heart of Scapa Flow. She’s the big sister, lying on her port side at around 45 metres, and a dive on her is an exercise in scale. We love dropping down and seeing those massive gun turrets, each one a universe of colour with plumose anemones and dead man's fingers. You can penetrate her, of course, but even staying outside, tracing the lines of her hull, is incredible. We’d suggest multiple dives to really appreciate her sheer size. Visibility in Scapa can vary wildly, but on a good day, the Markgraf looms into view like a steel mountain, a dark silhouette against the green light. Watch for the resident wrasse darting between the plates, and those little iridescent light-bulb sea squirts clinging to every surface. The currents here can be tricky, so pick your slack water window carefully; an ebbing tide can make for a fast drift. This isn't a dive for the faint of heart or the inexperienced, but for those with the right training and a love for monumental history, the Markgraf is an absolute marvel.