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Kiyosumi Maru

The Kiyosumi Maru is a beast of a dive, and one we always look forward to in Chuuk. This isn't just a wreck; it's a colossal piece of history, broken but still intimidatingly large. We usually start our descent over the stern, where the prop is surprisingly intact, sitting proud in the gloom. Finning along her deck, you pass through cargo holds filled with the everyday detritus of war: bottles, ammunition, and engine parts. The sheer volume of material is staggering; it really brings home the scale of the Japanese fleet. Our favourite part has to be the bridge area, though. It’s a tangle of collapsed metal and growth now, but the outlines are still clear, and the feeling of swimming through it is something else. Look out for the resident blackspot surgeonfish darting through the rusted superstructure. The coral growth here is impressive too, especially the large meandroid brain coral and plenty of branching corals clinging to the hull. It’s a site that rewards multiple dives, letting you piece together her story compartment by compartment. Just be mindful of the occasional strong surge that can push through the lagoon entrance; it makes for an exciting drift, but keep an eye on your buddy.